Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
